French fries appear to be an easy item to prepare and cook, right? Then why are there so many bad ones served? To find out to prepare and cook good fries, the Old Cobbler turned to the folks at Sarah’s Irish Pub in the Phoebus section of Hampton, Virginia.
This family run business⎯mother and daughter for thirty plus years⎯has been converting an average of 400 plus pounds of fresh potatoes a week into French fries. That is a lot of practice and experience. The result is the best tasting French fries this writer has ever eaten.
In answer to the question regarding how it’s done, Trish Profer, the current owner of Sarah’s, said it starts with the right type of potato. After it is properly prepared, it is cooked twice, and then promptly served after the second cooking.
The type of potato (not a russet for the record), the blend of cooking oils, the temperature and length of time for each step in the cooking process, as well as how the potatoes are handled between the two trips into the hot oil, are all hard earned, closely guarded secrets.
Outside research turned up this explanation of the two-step cooking process. Alton Brown, host of “Good Eats” on the Food Channel, says⎯after all the science and physics are removed⎯that the goal of the first step, called blanching, is to cook the potato just until it becomes “limp and floppy, but not greasy.”
The second step, Brown explains, does two things. It makes the water inside the potato boil, turn to steam, and push out from the inside of the potato, preventing the cooking oil from entering. This step also gives the fry its golden, crispy exterior.
Brown emphasizes that the proper temperatures and times are critical if the overall goal of the cooking steps is reached. This goal is to produce a finished product with a minimum of oil being absorbed.
Culinary experts agree that when the cooking is done at the correct temperature for the proper length of time, the oil absorption is so low that deep fat frying is considered a dry cooking process.
So what can a customer expect to be served when ordering French fires at Sarah’s Irish Pub? They will experience a fry that scores top marks in what the food critics call the basic tests: aroma, appearance, texture, and taste.
The aroma is that of freshly cooked potatoes, not an ambiguous smell that leaves the customer wondering what other foods might have been cooked in the same oil.
The appearance is a golden brown, matching the hue of the bun or toasted bread when the fries are served with a burger or sandwich. The color is even, an indication that the fries were cooked in a small quantity that allowed each strip of potato to fully interact with the hot oil.
Texture is a combination of the thin, crispy exterior that covers each fry, plus the slightly crispier texture of the skins, which are not removed during preparation. This combination gives a hint of crunchiness when eaten.
It all comes together in the final test, taste. The texture, the flavoring from the oil, and properly cooked strips of potato deliver to the palate the ultimate in eating French fries that have been prepared and cooked the proper way.
There is one humorous footnote. Some first-time customers, accustomed to the ash blonde appearance of most French fries, take one look at a serving of the fries at Sarah’s, and think they are burned. That idea always disappears with the first bite.

